“The trickiest part of the trail was just before reaching Gokyo village. A steep uphill with falling rocks that one has to watch out for and move quickly to avoid getting hit.”
This trail was somewhat treacherous with very narrow, steep ups and downs, rocky terrain, loose rocks and scree as we crossed the Ngozumpa glacier to get to the other side, where the Gokyo lake area was located. Ngozumpa glacier is the longest glacier in Nepal connecting Cho Oyu (the sixth highest mountain) to the Gokyo area. This glacier flows slowly into the spillway lake and has been changing constantly every year due to increased glacial melt and erosion.
I heard a strange bird sound while walking uphill and spotted a couple of large Himalayan mountain chickens also known as the Himalayan snow cock peeking through some scrub and pecking on the ground. They seemed like heavy flightless birds and I learnt that they do fly but are not strong enough for a sustained flight.
The trail was surrounded by grey and dull looking rock debris and sediments left by the glacial melt. The pools of water collected looked more like a grayish sludge-like mixture. Some of these pools of water looked different with a cobalt blue from the minerals in the mixture.
The trickiest part of the trail was just before reaching Gokyo village. A steep uphill with falling rocks that one has to watch out for and move quickly to avoid getting hit. The tiny pebbles rolling below your boots could easily trip you and so quick agile steps were necessary. The sudden change in my heart rate left me gasping for breath mid way. But Tika (the guide) warned me to not stop for more than a few seconds to catch my breath. I moved quickly again to potentially avoid any falling rock debris and got to the top. The most beautiful view of the Gokyo valley and the cobalt blue lake ‘Dudh Pokhari’ appeared, along with the majestic Gokyo Ri peak in the backdrop. It was literally a breath of fresh air after the long gray trail the last couple of hours and running uphill with my heart racing fast. I quickly descended to the valley to rejoin my friends at Gokyo resort.
Gokyo resort felt like an oasis of luxury after these last few days. It’s a unique place with a legacy of yak herders and the establishment has been renovated with modern materials to make it a comfortable place for hikers to rejuvenate and relax. The dining area is large and spacious and the tall glass windows provide a direct view of the lakes and mountains. Large colored Tibetan rugs on wooden benches and a large central chimney provides a warm welcoming space.
My sore throat by now turned into a really painful laryngitis, my Delhi belly troubles became more serious and I began having a mild fever. I suddenly turned weak and fragile within a couple of hours after reaching Gokyo. I started my course of Z-pack after some hearty Sherpa stew. Sherpa stew is a hearty hot vegetable noodle stew with lots of garlic, a perfect boost for the immune system and a real comfort food for my condition. It is a must try for any Himalayan trip.
I needed a good night’s sleep to regain some strength. The plan was to wake up at 4:00am the next morning to hike Gokyo Ri. I was in no shape to do it. I just collapsed into my bed and let the antibiotics and the ibuprofens do their magic. I woke up the next morning feeling much better. I had missed the Gokyo Ri hike but I had made the right decision to stay back and avoid getting further sick.
I know I’ll come back again for this. My plan this time was to test the waters for doing all three passes in future – Kongma La pass, Cho La pass (which I had just completed) and Renjo La pass. This trip taught me a great deal about things I needed to better prepare for my next big Himalayan adventure.
After another day of waiting at Gokyo due to weather delays, we left for Kathmandu the next morning. It was a few hours of indefinite waiting and then suddenly we had to run to catch the chopper that had already arrived. It felt like I was in one of those movies, making a dramatic run to the chopper, the wind from the slowly turning blades billowing over everything and everyone. Within a few seconds we flew up, leaving Gokyo village appear as small specs of colored rooftops. I quietly admired the mountains from my vantage point, reminiscing the last 12 days and thinking about what my next adventure would be like.
Stats: Distance and elevation profile
Thangnak to Gokyo:
Distance: 2.05 miles | Elevation gain: 498ft | Elevation loss: 256ft
Wanderlust On Foot 
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